By Phillip D. Johnson
With a nod to the carols of yesteryear, LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT’S WINTER COLLECTION invites us on an adventure led by dashing reindeer, and an open mind that calls forth a sense of childhood wonder. With an elegant flourish, and an astonishing display of culinary magic, NICOLAS CLOISEAU, MASTER CHEF OF LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT, introduces the ‘A MIDWINTER NIGHT’S DREAM’ COLLECTION, which beautifully combines the comforting warmth of chocolate with the joyful spirit of the holiday season.
The midwinter night’s tale begins in with the signature piece, hand-crafted in the atelier of LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT, a place where dreams come to life… The company’s master chocolatiers have created a wild ride, depicted like a clock mechanism with its internal workings held in place by a lacework of delicate strands of chocolate. A contrast of materials, the reindeer dash on a whirlwind of golden stars, seemingly weightless against the night sky. A mendiant disc garnished with pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, chocolate beads and cocoa nibs drives the gourmand gearwheel.
In contrast to the unbridled pace, it is the attention to detail that inspires dreaminess, and makes time stand still. NICOLAS CLOISEAU practices a rare and precious artistry; his prowess exalts the savoir-faire of his craft. Perspective, movement, and dexterity apply aptly to the description of working with chocolate. Lacework, needlepoint, and gilding have inspired the detail of A Midwinter Night’s Dream’s three frontispieces:
— A graceful reindeer, the messenger of Father Christmas, leaps through a starry Christmas Eve in “The Reindeer”.
— A whimsical, spirited ride is captured in the notes of chocolate; pear and champagne nestled in the heart of the exceptional bûche “A Christmas Tale”.
— Finally, the grand grace and agility of the bounding reindeer in chocolate interlace, defy the artistic boundaries of ‘A Midwinter Night’s Dream,” the centrepiece of this collection.
The artistic signature of Nicolas Cloiseau is just as evident in his pastries; from the same fountain of inspiration spring snow-covered deer dreaming of Christmas, and a universe of fruity, intoxicating chocolate. The acidulous, exotic dark fruit flavors of CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, featuring CACAO from Madagascar, unveil effervescent notes of BLANC DE NOIR CHAMPAGNE. The sabayon and gelée enliven cubes of flambéed Pear Williams come to life. Festive notes of champagne with chocolate unleash the sophistication of silky, lush pear… and transport us from legend back to reality.
THE ‘MIDWINTER NIGHT’S DREAM’ COFFRET (55-pieces, $98.00; 15-pieces, $48.00 & 32-pieces, $67.00)
Nicolas Cloiseau also presents six new creations inspired by his latest gustatory discoveries. A pairing of the crisp notes of winter with the effervescence of the end of the year celebrations, shape La Maison du Chocolat’s latest chocolate creations:
The Chocolates
DUO OF PEARS:
Nicolas Cloiseau set his sights on the little known Red Williams pear, breaking the rules of the mythical association of pear and chocolate in pastry. Subtle notes of milk chocolate enhance the winter fruit. Whole pear compote cooked in caramel reveals silky notes of milk chocolate, with a creamy, caramelized finish.
Noire de Noir:
The NOIRE DE NOIR GANACHE reveals the entire palette of the unexpected flavours in this exclusive vintage of pure origin cacao from Madagascar. Unusual notes of ripe dark fruits follow an acidulous rush of cassis and intense accents of roasted nuts, for a unique sensorial experience.
Blanc de Noir:
This exceptional DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE is infused with BLANC DE NOIR CHAMPAGNE made from a unique assemblage of PINOT NOIR and PINOT MEUNIER red grapes. The chocolate flavour lingers with a hint of dark fruit to release effervescent notes of wine.
NOIR HAZELNUT:
Nicolas Cloiseau has crafted a rare and exclusive praliné featuring crisp, roasted hazelnut notes, just out of the oven, accentuating the crunchy, nutty flavour of PIEDMONT HAZELNUTS. A signature praliné, well cooked, slightly sweetened, with slivers of whole hazelnuts and lovely notes of dark chocolate.
NOUGAT DARK & NOUGAT CREAMY:
A delicate CHESTNUT NOUGAT and GARRIGUE WILDFLOWER HONEY are the stars of this coffret, featuring a supple, perfect meringue, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of perfectly roasted almonds. Sliced in delicate layers, the nougat enrobed in milk chocolate has sweet, gourmet notes. Enrobed in dark chocolate, the chestnut flavour becomes more pronounced, for a warm, lasting taste.
THE ‘EFFERVESCENCE’ COFFRET ($60)
Synonymous with elegance and celebrations, this new coffret features a duo of BRUT and ROSÉ CHAMPAGNES. Paired with CHOCOLATE GANACHE to accentuate the lively and acidulous bubbles of champagne, this coffret is a circle of delight, and a prelude to end of year festivities.
“BRUT” SPHERE
It is an encounter between CHOCOLATE and BRUT CHAMPAGNE, a synthesis of each other’s similar qualities. Their notes of roasted nuts and cacao beans reunite the same aromatic tones, a sphere of intense dark chocolate ganache unleashes a rush of brut champagne upon the palate.
“ROSÉ” SPHERE
Charming and subtle, the MILK GANACHE of the ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE sphere features the fruity flavours of rosé wine. Its delicate notes are prolonged by the sweetness of the milk chocolate and give way to stronger, bubbly notes of pure champagne.
THE ADVENT CALENDAR ($62.00)
Finally, the grand grace and agility of the bounding reindeer in chocolate interlace, defy the artistic boundaries of ‘A MIDWINTER NIGHT’S DREAM’, the centerpiece of this collection. Nicolas Cloiseau and the master chocolatiers of LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT leave their artistic signature on every detail of their creations. From the same fountain of inspirati on spring snowcovered deer dreaming of Christmas, and a universe of rich, heart-warming chocolate flavors. From the whimsical dashing reindeer to the festive notes of champagne, from rare Alpine pears to pure origin cacao, the artistic signature of Nicolas Cloiseau will transport us from legend back to reality in one unforgettable holiday tasting.
PHOTO GALLERY
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